Savoring Sicily: A Night of Wine, Friendship, and Culinary Magic
When we returned to Sicily this past May to find more wines and share the island with our friends - Ciro and Stephanie were gracious in accepting our invite to come to dinner and pair their wines with our wonderful chef Marco. We hosted five couples around the eastern side of the island in our inaugural A Posto Sicilian tour. See more below on our tour itinerary.
We asked one of our friends on the trip to help us capture the lovely moment we shared as a group, and with Ciro and Stephanie. Below is Lee’s excellent recounting of our evening together.
by Lee Waldrep
Laying poolside at the edge of a rugged slope steeply tumbling to the Ionian Sea, I pretend not to hear a friend's suggestion to head back to the villa to dress for our final group dinner. For seven days we'd basked in the local bounty of sardines, sunshine, and spritzes to the point where I'm dubious of any future plans that don't include further exploration of the terraced vineyards and pebbled beaches of Sicily's eastern coast. Meanwhile, gazing up at the clouds waiting for Mt. Etna to reveal her snow-capped summit is proving far more rewarding than staring down the barrel of my fast approaching 40th birthday.
The view over the pool from Villa Tenuta della Contea
Back on the villa balcony echoes of frenzied activity flow from the adjacent kitchen. Inside prepping are our chefs for the evening, Marco and Domenico, who dazzled us a few nights before with seemingly endless small plates, including my personal favorites, the tuna tartare with capers bathed in local olive oil and the anchovies served alongside orange slices and parsley. The chefs' cheery personalities are welcome companions on our last night.
Glancing across the horizon from the balcony with an obligatory apertivo spritz in hand, I fixate on the glimmering lights of Taormina shimmering 30 miles to the north. We visited the town a few days before and ambled around its steep terrain perched over the sea. In a whirlwind week our apostovino hosts whisked us out to the vineyards of Etna, between the stalls of Catania's rightfully famed fish market, and among the alleyways and narrow streets of the Island of Ortigia. A boat trip up the choppy coastline on our last day was a fitting capstone to the trip offering a different perspective on the terrain as well as a sea-churning queasiness that was not quelled by the copious amounts of octopus and swordfish provided by the boat's crew.
By the time I cut my gaze and turn around I am introduced to Ciro and Stephanie, owners of Biondi winery, whose sophisticatedly dapper attire and noble manners make me feel both underdressed and overserved. I am swiftly put at ease by Ciro and Stephanie's warm greetings and humbled by the incredible vignettes they share throughout the evening of reviving Ciro's centuries old family vineyard a few miles down the road on the southern slopes of the volcano. We learn of their cherished bull mastiffs who wander the property and the occasional WWII relics found therewithin. Vivid images are conjured of Ciro as a youth playing among the vines that had fallen into abandonment as if foretelling his eventual return to restore the family business. Years later, Stephanie's arrival on the estate must have uplifted the spirits of Ciro and the whole enterprise.
As Ciro concludes a summary of the wine he is pouring, Marco emerges with a gorgeous plate of grilled octopus on a bed of pureed chickpeas followed by the classic prosciutto e melone, a giant snapper cooked whole in a salt cocoon and a hearty rendition of eggplant parmesan. This all pairs quite well with the Biondi's white Carricante - Pianta . I'm particularly drawn to the richness, with its salinity and minerality that cuts through the fat of the prosciutto, while not over powering the octopus.
As our evening winds down a calming mist drifts from the volcano and settles in the valley below. For the moment we push aside tomorrow's looming airport shuttles and connecting flights with delightful sips of Amara, the blood orange Sicilian artisanal bitter. Final toasts are given and hugs exchanged. Reflecting back on our week in Sicily many thoughts and emotions come rushing in. For one, I'm inspired by the Biondis and how they persevered to produce wines of the utmost quality and am thrilled they were able to share their stories and favorite bottles with us. I'm amazed that six couples pushing the age of 40 could find child care for a week and feel fortunate that we made this dream of a trip a reality. Lastly, I'm grateful for apostovino, and the driving forces behind it, Ken and Andrea, who are making the very special terroir, people, culture and wines of Sicily accessible to admirers from afar. Ciao, for now.
At A Posto Vino, we believe that the best way to understand and appreciate the magic of our wines is to experience the land and meet the people behind them. Occasionally we have invited a few friends and family to join us on an unforgettable trip to Sicily, where we visit our partner producers. These immersive trips allow you to walk through vineyards, meet local farmers, and explore the terroir that shapes the wines you love. Imagine wandering amongst the ancient vines, learning about biodynamic practices, and enjoying fresh local cuisine while sipping wines crafted with passion and tradition.
Our trips are all about connection—not only with the land but with the heart and soul of Sicily. From intimate tastings at family-owned wineries to breathtaking views of volcanic soils, you’ll gain an appreciation for the meticulous care that goes into every bottle. It’s a chance to share in the Sicilian way of life, surrounded by stunning landscapes and the warmth of its people, and return home with a deeper connection to the wines we offer.
Drop us a note if you are interested in joining us on our next trip!
2024 Itinerary
Day 1: Saturday - Arrival and airport pickup by Andrea, Ken and private driver.
Charcuterie and wine welcome. Dinner prepared at the house to give guests time to freshen up, get unpacked and settled for an exciting week.
Sunday: Beach Day
We find the first day is best spent acclimating to the sunshine, enjoying a stroll through town, and flexibility to adjust to the time zone. Our first private chef dinner at the house with a wine pairing by an a posto producer.
Monday: Catania/Ortigia exploration
After a fresh breakfast cooked at home with plenty of espresso, we load into the cars to see the famous Catania fish market while it is open in the morning. Stroll through the purveyors, enjoy fresh oysters, anchioves and grilled fresh right in the market. Then it is back in the car to see the Unesco World Heritage Site of Ortigia. Here we will walk the mostly car free tight streets, enjoy the coast, and shop at the family owned stores.
Tuesday: Taormina strolling
Taormina is one of the world’s most beautiful hill side villages with a gorgeously preserved amphitheater. We will spend the day here strolling the cobbled streets and touring the historical sites.
End the day with a private chef dinner and wine pairing by one of our producers at the villa
Wednesday: Mediterranean Boat trip
No trip to Sicily is complete without seeing the island from the water. We will have a private sail or catamaran tour and a chance to swim in some grottos.
Thursday: Etna Wine day
Visit three of our producers for a vineyard walk, exclusive wine tasting, and dive into the history of their families and production. Grab a quick panino at Buon Gustaio, the best wine shop on Etna.
Friday: Free day - revisit your favorite towns and activities
Saturday: Departure from us, but you don’t have to go home!
